History
Agriculture has been important to Orange since its foundations in 1860 with apple, cherry and stonefruit orchards leading the way. Vineyards had been planted in the 1920s but it wasn’t until 1980 that the focus turned to wine grapes. The first vines were planted at the Nashdale Vineyard on the western outskirts of Orange and the Sons & Brothers vineyard at Millthorpe. Over the next decade local families like d’Aquino (Highland Heritage) and Smith (Canobolas Smith) were joined by energetic newcomers at Cargo Road Wines, Forest Edge and the Doyles at Bloodwood. Things took a big leap forward when then Rosemount Estate winemaker, Philip Shaw planted his 47-hectare Koomooloo vineyard. The Koomooloo fruit went to Rosemount until the launch of Philip Shaw Wines in 2004.
The 1990s saw a flood of plantings across Australia with Orange benefitting from the rapid expansion with a mix of traditional orchardists (like the Hoskins at Brangayne) planting wine grapes and larger commercial ventures, some operating as managed investment schemes. The Cumulus Vineyards at Molong is an excellent resource that was spawned by the latter scenario. The Orange G.I. (Geographic Indicator) was registered in 1996 with the first Orange Wine Show judged in 2002.
The area under vine is now over 1100 hectares with additional 300 in the surrounding Central Ranges Zone. While there’s been little expansion of vineyards over the last decade, it’s the influx of both new and experienced winegrowers that’s taken the Orange Region to a higher plane. Many of the regions producers now boast onsite wineries with several others having significant vineyard operations. Boutique wineries abound reflecting the influx of enthusiastic, quality-focussed winegrowers. The growing band of environmentally aware winegrowers also acknowledge the importance of organic and bio-dynamic viticulture in the modern world. Orange boasts Australia’s first NCOS certified carbon neutral winery. The region has also attracted interest from the Hunter Valley and Mudgee with several leading producers now sourcing grapes from Orange.
It’s taken just 40 years for the Orange Wine Region to stake its claim as one of Australia’s top wine regions with more than 60 vineyards planted and 40 cellar doors open to the growing flock of eager wine lovers from across Australia and around the globe.
Elevation
Orange NSW is home to Australia’s highest altitude vineyards and is often hailed as one of our most European-style cool-climate regions. In fact less than 1% of vineyards in Australia sit above 600m, positioning the region as a truly unique viticulture destination.
From the peak of Mount Canobolas (Gaanha-bula) to the slopes of the Towac Valley, the diversity in elevation allows for a wide range of varietals to be produced. Climactically speaking, grapes here can be grown in the same conditions as the crisp French region of Champagne (1100-1150m above sea level) to the warmer temperatures of Central Italy (600m - 650m above sea level).
Orange wines can be distinguished as medium to light-bodied with refined tannins and impressive flavour intensity. Grapes grown in cooler, higher elevations will result in a medium to light-bodied aromatic drop, and warmer, lower elevations will produce a more full to medium-bodied wine which is less aromatic.
Winemakers in this high-altitude region do face the challenges of Orange weather such as frost and hail, however the prize is a fruit much higher natural acids which enhances freshness and structure.
Terroir
Terroir is a French word that attempts to define the diverse environmental factors that give a wine its individual smell and taste. It includes climate, soil, topography, aspect and, perhaps most importantly, the winegrower. Generations of French vignerons have trialled, tested and adapted their grapegrowing and winemaking to infuse their wines with a special sense of place. Australian winegrowers have followed the same path with Hunter Valley semillon and Coonawarra cabernet sauvignon examples of the adaption of a single variety to a wine region
However, given its incredibly diverse terroir, Orange excels with many grape varieties. Elevation is just one factor that stamps the wines of the Orange Region as being individual and distinct. Grapes grown at 600 metres are vastly different from those from the significantly cooler 1000+ metre. There’s a ‘rule of thumb’ that for every 100 metres in elevation, the thermometer drops 1 degree over the growing season. It may not sound much but the impact on the selection of grape variety to suit a particular site is quite significant. Pinot noir planted at 600 metres has more robust flavours than the more delicate wines from the highest sites.
Orange stakes its claim as a ‘cool climate’ winegrowing region based on its warm (but rarely hot) summer days, cool nights and crunchy cold winters. Site selection is critical to ensure full ripeness is achieved, especially in the cooler years. Vineyards to the west of Orange facing the warm westerly sun are best suited to bolder reds and fuller flavoured white varieties. The highest vineyards on the slopes of Mount Canobolas (which peaks at 1395 metres) are perfect for aromatic whites, chardonnay and pinot noir and sparkling wines made with the latter two grapes. More easterly and north-facing vineyards attract the cooler morning sun with the grapes ripening slowly to produce fine grape flavours and the elegant wines for which Orange is justly famed. Orange’s high elevation and subsequently crisp nights allows the slowly ripening grapes to retain good levels of natural acidity bringing a freshness and vitality to the resultant wines.
Elevation is just part of Orange’s intricate matrix with the complex geology of Orange an equally important factor. Mount Canobolas is an ancient volcano which has been weathered down to produce rich basalt-based soils – deep red in colour and full of nutrients. Orange sits on the western slopes of the Great Dividing Range, its undulating topography once the eastern shoreline of Australia’s vast inland sea. The sea left behind the Borenore Caves and broken outcrops of limestone. Shales, slate and greywacke add further geological diversity to the Region. The vine produces its most intense flavours when it struggles in poorer soils, so the exposed ridges offer some of the best viticultural sites.
The early pioneers planted an assortment of varieties – in some cases the decision was based on personal preference, others what wines were fashionable at the time with the availability of vine cuttings an equally determining factor. Traditional varieties like chardonnay, shiraz and cabernet sauvignon predominate. Aromatic whites, pinot noir and cabernet franc are gaining momentum with the more recent plantings of Italian varieties like prosecco, arneis, nebbiolo, sangiovese, barbera and montepulciano entering the mainstream. Spain likewise receives a nod with tempranillo showing promise.
This eclectic range of grape varieties reinforces the Region’s remarkable diversity, which is reflected in the Orange Wine Region’s multiplicity of wine styles. Viva la difference